Cycling the Camino Frances: Roncesvalles to Santiago

Start your journey in the Navarrese Pyrenees, where the medieval roads that started from the interior of Europe once met and which is now the starting point of the Camino Frances within Spain. Ancient architecture includes the 13th-century Collegiate Church of Santa María and Casa de los Beneficiados.

The first day of the French Way from Roncesvalles heads along a typical mountain route without too much difficult terrain, with only two uphill stretches at Alto de Mezquíriz and Alto de Erro, and the rest downhill. Cycle through the important medieval and pilgrim city of Larrasoaña, cross the River Arga several times en route to Pamplona. Once in Pamplona, take time to enjoy its medieval architecture and cultural sites.

The most important milestone of this stage is the Alto del Perdón, although its 260m ascent is gradual and the descent a little more rugged. The Monument to the Pilgrim is a summit landmark, as are some windmills. Once in Puente La Reina, it is worth visiting its large medieval bridge with five arches, the church of San Pedro, from the 14th century, and the convent of Comendadoras de Sancti Spíritus. After this, take a gentle 5km descent, followed by a short ascent to Mañeru. Next up is the town of Cirauqui, with a medieval Gothic church and Roman road, with some original sections preserved. Descent into Estella on today’s last stage.

Today’s stage has some manageable ascents, starting with the famous Fuente de Vino as you leave Estella. The last 12km, from Villamayor de Monjardín to Los Arcos, takes you through rural farmland and secondary roads, with hardly any shade. In summer months this can be uncomfortable ,so be prepared. The journey continues along dirt tracks, alongside olive and almond groves and vineyards, as you enter La Rioja wine region. The rest of the day’s cycling is quite challenging, rewarded with the likes of Castillo de Clavijo castle ruins and finally the wine hub of Logroño for a well earned glass of the local specialty and plenty of tapas.

Today there are two significant climbs, namely Alto de la Grajera and Alto de San Antón, although they are not too challenging. The landscapes change from vineyards to farmland once again, as you bring this 50km stretch of the Camino to a close in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, another medieval gem.

Today you leave La Rioja region and head into Castilla León. This is another comfortable day on the Camino de Santiago, albeit with two climbs to La Grajera and San Antón. Arriving in Belorado, you enter the great Castilian plateau, following tracks and trails to Montes de Oca. Shortly before reaching Atapuerca, you cycle through San Juan de Ortega, a jewel of Spanish Gothic architecture. The Sierra de Atapuerca offers good views of the area and a very pleasant cycling route, as well as one of the most important archaeological sites in the world. Cycle into Burgos via the river trail rather than the industrial area on its outskirts to explore the capital city of the Castilla León region, famous for its superb Gothic cathedral.

Although cycling in the Castilian plateau is relatively easy, this is another areas of little shade, so be prepared during hot weather. There are some magnificent medieval towns en route though, and at your final stop of Castrojeriz, don’t miss a visit to the Collegiate Church of Santa María del Manzano and its Museum of Sacred Art.

Leaving Castrojeriz, the day starts with a tough 2km ascent to the top of Mostelares, with a drop of 145m. and views across the plateau. After cycling to the ancient town of Frómista the cycling terrain flattens out, taking you through Villalcázar de Sirga, a traditional pilgrim town, finishing in Carrión de los Condes where a visit to San Zoilo monastery is a must.

This is a quieter section of the French Way, with fewer towns as you follow the Via Aquitania, the Roman road XXXIV or Ab Asturica Burdigalam (Astorga-Bordeaux). Leaving Calzadilla de la Cueza climb for around 2km, then cross some quiet valleys and across the River Valderaduey into the province of León. Next stop is the Mudejar town of Sahagún, one of the most unique on the Camino de Santiago, famous for the churches of San Tirso and San Lorenzo. Leave Sahagún crossing the River Cea towards Bercianos del Camino, along a fairly easy route, with your final stop of the day at El Burgo Ranero.

A very flat stage that runs practically in a straight line following quiet dirt roads to Mansilla de las Mulas, with a perfect rest on the banks of the River Esla. Today’s cycle stage ends in one of the main hubs of the Camino de Santiago, so there are a few busier roads to content with. The hill of Portillo, with its magnificent views, marks your arrival into León, famous for its magnificent cathedral, Gaudí’s Casa Botines and the San Marcos Hospital. Take a walk through the Old Town, stopping in the Barrio del Húmedo for some top tapas.

Leaving León, you begin your cycle with a fairly simple stage en route to Astorga, home to one of the largest and oldest dioceses in Spain and capital of the Maragatería region. It is also the point where the Camino Frances and Camino Vía de la Plata meet.

The terrain becomes more and more complicated in this second phase, as there are more climbs than descents. Head through towns such as Foncebadón, typical of the Maragatería region, up to Cruz de Fierro on Mount Irago, the highest point of the Camino at around 1,500m. After descending from Cruz de Fierro, you arrive into Ponferrada, the capital of the Bierzo region.

Cycle to Villafranca del Bierzo, 24 km from Ponferrada. At La Faba, there are two forks in the road. It is usually recommended to take the direction to the hostel as the terrain is less complicated. Leave the province of León and cycle through Lugo to Galicia. When you arrive in O Cebreiro, visit the church of Santa María La Real. The climb to the Cuesta de la Faba at almost 700m is one of the most daunting on the Camino, but it’s worth it, bringing you into O Cebreiro, a charming Jacobean village and gateway to the Serra dos Ancares.

Cycle alongside the slopes of the Mount area taking on the ascent of Alto do Poio (1,337m). After these elevated sections the descent to Triacastela begins, where the path is divided into two routes: on the left is the LU-633 which leads to Samos, taking you past a Benedictine monastery to Sarria. Or, turn right and cycle through San Xil, which is 6.5km shorter in terms of distance, but some trickier cycling to Sarria.

This stage has some challenges. Divided by the Sierra de Ligonde, cycle through the towns of Portomarín with its Santa María church and Monterroso. Bring the day to a close first of all at at San Tirso church in Palas de Rei, with only a few kilometres to your bed at Melide.

This is the last stage and Santiago is closer than expected. Cycle through towns such as Arzúa and Pedrouzo on an easy route, although it becomes a bit trickier as you approach Santiago Airport. Stop at Monte do Gozo for rewarding, panoramic view including, most exciting of all, the towers of the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral just a few kilometres away. The trip from Monte del Gozo to Plaza del Obradoiro flies past as you complete this extraordinary cycling adventure.

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